Hey guys--I got a mold from Pioneer Products for a 45 cal adjustable to my specs for diameter and the quality is outstanding and it throws some great looking bullets--just cast up 25 520gr for a buddy's -110 and 100 440 grain for my -70---will let ya know how they shoot
oh --specifics on the bullet it self--nose section is .740 long and .440 dia--this gives a patched dia of 449 to just fit in the bore---base section comes out at 447 and gives 455 to 456 patched dia w/ my paper and technique--I use unsized brass and a taper crimp to hold it all together
anyway--as soon as I can get to the range I'll let ya know
SHILOH 1
USN EM1 (78-83)
Sporter#3 45-70 military butt 34" standard MVA Long range and MVA standard front insert
People with weapons are citizens: People without are subjects!!
Congrats on the mould. Paper patching is an avocation to me. Been doing it for more years than I'll admit to.
Tell me about the mould's feature that allows you to adjust for dia. Or did I read that wrong?
TL
"I heartily accept the motto, 'That government is best which governs least'; and I should like to see it acted up to more rapidly and systematically... 'That government is best which governs not at all'."
hey timberlake---yeah I have been trying to get pp going for awhile now--got some outstanding advice from rdneck but just never could find the right dia comercial bullets to fit in my Shiloh--so I ordered one!!!!--Nope--the bullet is a straight side with a small step between the base and and nose section--kinda like a delaminator ring(that's for all the engineering types out there and I suspect that's exactly how it will work) and it is adjustable for length with a cup base/nose pour
yup I like paper patch--if the old timers could get them to shoot--I KNOW I/we can too--besides there is the "coolness factor" also -- like the man said--walk into a camp with a Sharp's and a full cartridge belt of paper patched hanging on it--everything else is just playing catch-up!!
SHILOH 1
USN EM1 (78-83)
Sporter#3 45-70 military butt 34" standard MVA Long range and MVA standard front insert
People with weapons are citizens: People without are subjects!!
Rich does that bullet look like the bullet second from the right in my picture? If it is it should work real good for you. I make that bullet hollow or flat based. http://groups.msn.com/BPCR/leadpots.msn ... hotoID=775
Hey Lead Pot--yeah it does--the "nose section" tho is a little longer and the "step" is only .006 or .003 on a side--not quite as big--it is 440 on the nose and 446 on the base and goes .680 for a total OAL of 1.120 and 520 gr --I'll try and get a pic to send--have to wait till Monday and use the one at work--
SHILOH 1
USN EM1 (78-83)
Sporter#3 45-70 military butt 34" standard MVA Long range and MVA standard front insert
People with weapons are citizens: People without are subjects!!
wish I had known that a year ago-- would have saved me a bunch of
time ordering wrong size bullets --thinking about a 44-77 for the next one--but that's in the future aways--
SHILOH 1
USN EM1 (78-83)
Sporter#3 45-70 military butt 34" standard MVA Long range and MVA standard front insert
People with weapons are citizens: People without are subjects!!
lead pot,
could you post some more info about the discussed pp bullet? I have a corbin press and am considering swaging, so could you tell us what you use and steps involved?
thanks
keith
Keith
Swaging a PP bullet is about the easiest to make. You need a core. If you don’t like to cast, you can cut a core from lead wire. Pure lead or alloyed. Next you run it through a core swag die to make it uniform in weight and size. My die is .002 under the finished bullet because I use a another die to form my base for flat or cup, or I might put on a copper base guard, and a hollow point punch to form a HP and it makes forming the nose a little easer. It makes a better looking nose. This punch swages a V in the core, it looks like a shape charge if you’re up on explosives.
Next I run it through the nose form die and make the finished bullet. With the proper base punch to match the base.
For PP bullets I think this is the best way to go with a minimal cost. You can use the PP bullets and knurl them which expand them to what ever size you wand depending how aggressive you knurl. I use a .448 and knurl them to, 459 or the .398 to .410 for the .40. The knurled bullet holds the same lube as the average GG bullet and they fly straight.
You can swage tapered PP and it is as simple as changing a nose punch to swage the ogive you want, from a wad cutter to your imagination. And what ever length your die will handle.
It is expensive to set up for swaging. I started swaging back in the 50’s because I could mot find jacketed bullets heavy enough I wanted and it grew from there.
My feeling on swaging is, with the good custom bullet moulds available now and you’re a good caster the cast bullets are good as anything. But if your one of the guys that always is looking for that magic bullet and you have some tooling out in the shed or basement were you can cut your punches or try your hand making the dies I don’t think there is a limit what you can make and the bullet is perfectly uniform.
Sorry I forgot the equipment.
I use Richards RCE press and dies and Dave Corbins press mostly for loading. It wont handle some of the things I make. The Wallnut hill press I feel serves me better, but there both good presses. I also have C&H equipment –Herters and other things some were in drawers.
-- like the man said--walk into a camp with a Sharp's and a full cartridge belt of paper patched hanging on it--everything else is just playing catch-up!!
