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James M · Post by **James M** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 3:17 am

My shopping list is almost finished.
Which specific dies do you use, or would like to?
Are micrometer adjustable or dial indicator topped dies worthwhile?
Are such match grade dies availible in .45-70ss?

Jim Watson · Post by **Jim Watson** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 4:14 pm

I use Lyman dies 'cause that was what was immediately available when I got my .38-55.

I think Redding is of first class quality and their micrometer adjustment Competition Seating Die would be very convenient for load development and loading different bullets for different uses or different loads for different guns.

I think the Vickerman seating dies are interesting and likely useful.
Available from Castingstuff.com or Meachamrifles.com
The Meacham Easy Seater version is even micrometer adjustable.

Kodiak · Post by **Kodiak** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 4:38 pm

James,

I have used Redding dies in several different bottle-necked calibers, for many years. I find they are good also in straight-walled cases, like my 45 x 2.4 Shiloh Sharps. I also use a Redding Bench-rest bullet-seater for my cast bullet seating and find that there is zero run-out in bullet placement in the case. Their die sets can cost more than others, but I find they are a good value. My .02 cents,

Omaha Poke · Post by **Omaha Poke** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 5:36 pm

James, get the Pat Wolfe 5 die set, comes with compression die, and every thing else you will ever need for your .45-70. Randy

James M · Post by **James M** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:25 am

Did anyone else want to chime in on this topic ?

taw1126 · Post by **taw1126** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 8:23 am

Okay, I will, for what it's worth...but keep in mind that my black powder reloading experience is very limited...

I bought a set of Hornady .45-70 dies when I started reloading smokeless several years ago, and they have been the nucleus for building my current set-up. I decap using an RCBS universal die, resize (full-length or neck only) in the Hornady sizing die, and seat using the Hornady seating die. I think the seating die is worth the low cost of the whole set for two reasons- 1) they have a very inexpensive micrometer attachment for adjusting seating depth (mine was actually included free in a MidwayUSA promotion) and 2) the Hornady seating die has an inner sleeve that drops below the bottom of the die and aligns the bullet before it gets seated. I don't have a lot to compare to, but I think those are pretty good features for a low-cost set.

That said, the Hornady expander die is junk. I'm much, much happier with the Lyman M-Die. I've also recently bought a compression die from Buffalo Arms and a Lyman taper crimp die.

Trey

don marable · Post by **don marable** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:33 am

James M.

taw 1126 touched on something that I think is important. How to deprime fired cases. I like to deprime and clean primer pockets at the range. I use a depriming tool that fits onto my Lee Auto Priming tool. I bought it from Bullalo Arms, and if you don't like that idea, Buffalo Arms sells several different types of depriming tools. After depriming at the range, I drop the casing into a vinegar/water solution, some people recommend using Dove soap and water or any other liquid soap and water or whatever. As soon as I get home, Some 15 minutes later, I rince the casing and put them in a rotary tumbler for cleaning. It stream lines the operation.

Don

Lee Stone · Post by **Lee Stone** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:45 am

The Pope style priming/de-priming tool Buffalo Arms sells is a beauty and works just great. It is colour case hardened:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/2,159.html

And it looks and is very period correct in your range box.

Ray Newman · Post by **Ray Newman** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 11:03 am

The only time that I ever utilized a competition die set to reload was when I had a Browning BBR Varminter in 7mm-08. Some times I still wish I had that rifle….

That being said, I utilize the standard dies to reload all my BPCR calibers. I have never felt the need for a precision bullet seating die like those for the full metal patched (AKA jacketed) bullet bench rest & varmint shooters. Those that use such dies for BP & lead seem satisfied w/ them.

The only comment that I heard directly from a Fellow BPCR Shooter about these dies was that he felt that he need to pay particular attention to keeping the inside of the die clean from excess bullet lube. According to him, any lube build up or residue would throw off the bullet seating measurement.

I can’t vouch for the accuracy of his statement, but it does make sense.

As an side, I have an older Jerry Simmons re-& de-capping tool, which is a clone of the Pope tool. I usually de-cap @ the range or wait till I get home as the trip from there isn’t too far. After de-capping, I use the brush on the tool handle to brush out the primer pocket, then the hulls are washed w/ hot soapy water, air dried, & tumbled. I’m thinking about trying out this ceramic media.

I’ve also seen shooters give the hull a sharp rap w/ a plastic mallet to dislodge a great deal of the residue from the hull prior to washing. Others have a scraper--fabricated from a section of a large shanked screw- driver ground to a triangular shape??--to clean out the hull prior to washing.

A small bladed sdcrew driver of the apprpriate size can also scrape out primer pockets.

Somewhere in my reloading kit, I have a battery operated screw driver w/a w/ a chuck. I chuck up a short section of a pistol cleaning rod & attach a brush to brush out the cases prior to washing them. The same battery operated tool can be used to brush out the cases when washing.

I’ve often contemplated taking a section of cleaning rod & expoxing it to a chunk of plastic that would be secured in a container. Fill the container w/ soapy water & run the hulls up & down the brush to wash them. Sort of like washing glasses in a tavern.

Kelley O. Roos · Post by **Kelley O. Roos** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 3:01 pm

James M.,

You didn't mention how much money you want to spend?

#1-Redding dies or Lyman dies.

#2-Meachan bullet seater

#3-RCBS press

#4-Norma Brass

#5-RCBS primer seating tool, single or hand held you choose.

#6-Doug Knoell depriming tool or the Meacham one.

#7-Harrel powder measure

#8-Build your own drop tube, recomend a 32" 3/8 dia.

#9-Paul Jones or Steve Brooks mould in that order.

#10-Harold Forham Range box and line box.

#11-Cleaning rod by Dan Pharass

#12-Fred Cornell wad punch

#13-MTM ammo box's

#15-Build your own blow tube

#16-rifle cleaning supplys

#17-bullet lube

#18-Casting equipment-lead, tin, laddle, lead pot.

#19- Rifle with quality sights.

Find all the above, add the cost's and get back to us

And thats all for starters. And I know I missed a bunch of stuff.

Kelley O.

Ray Newman · Post by **Ray Newman** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 6:37 pm

Kelley: as on Old Time Shooter once said "For the cost of good rifle, you can get set up to reload."

Let's see we still have not gotten around to casting....

Ray Newman · Post by **Ray Newman** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 6:56 pm

KO: seems as if both us forgot to add in the spotting scope, its case, & tripod/stand ....

Good thing I got all of this stuff that I need & think I need before I retired!

Kelley O. Roos · Post by **Kelley O. Roos** » Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:19 pm

Ray,

So true. It's why I'm still working, pays for new toys.

Kelley O.

woodpuppy · Post by **woodpuppy** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 7:49 am

OUCH! to see it all listed out like that.....

luckily if one orders a Shiloh now, one has a year to research and purchase the required trappings.

Ray Newman · Post by **Ray Newman** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 12:41 pm

“OUCH! to see it all listed out like that..…”

That list really didn’t address casting or spotting 'scopes & other range related equipment..

& also remember if you buy on the cheap it will cost you more when you replace it w/ quality…..

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