The reloading process

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HangfireME
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Location: Oakland, Maine

The reloading process

Post by HangfireME »

I've just finished reading the thread on best reloading setup. Aside from convincing me of the need for a turret press to replace my single stage Lyman convertible press, it has also caused me to wonder if the process I follow could be improved upon beyond just the press. What follows is my procedure with .45-70s and I would appreciate any and all comments/suggestions.

1. Cleaned cases are lubed with One Shot spray lube
(seems to work well for me)
2. Cases are decapped and sized using an RCBS sizingf/decapping die
3. Cases are primed using a Lyman prioming die
4. Case mouths are expanded using the RCBS die
5. Powder is dropped from a Lyman powder measure/drop tube
arrangement (can't remember the model # but designed for BP)
6. Fibre wad is placed over the powder and the filled case is run through
the compression die.
7. Bullet is placed in the case mouth and seated using the RCBS seating
die (no crimp applied)
8. De-cappiing pin is run out and cartridge is run partially back into sizing
die in order to remove any belling of the case mouth (I'm sure there's
a better way to do this part)
9. Drop each round into rifle's chamber to be certain they do, in fact,
chamber.

I am also weighing random charges to check the measure.

Well, have at it.
Minnesota AL
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Location: St Paul MN

loading method

Post by Minnesota AL »

I would skip the FL resizing, it leaves the case too small for a .458-.459 bullet. The flare of the case makes it possible to load the bullet, but it will get a little squashed in the fit, the flare only does the case top, not to the depth the bullet is seated.

I'm currently using no sizing at all, still flaring to assure the case mouth hasn't been dinged out of round.

I flare just enough so if I take an empty flared case there is very slight resistance as the case is fully seated into the chamber - the flare just starts to drag on the chamber wall. I figure this helps center the case in the chamber. I do not remove the flare.

Case prep: Resize, fire form, trim to uniform length (2.098 or 2.092), drill flash hole to uniform size, debur flash hole. In this sequence.

Al
Minnesota AL
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Ray Newman
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Post by Ray Newman »

Speaking from personal experience & observing the results of other Shooters, unless you de-cap cases prior to cleaning, the primer/BP residue will not be removed & will eventually weaken the brass & cause it to fail....
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Hi Ray, I used to somethings the same way you are doing. Then I got to reading all of the posts here and elsewhere and started skipping some of the steps, and adding others I guess.

1. De-prime immediately after firing and drop into a container of water and mild soap.

2. Rinse when I get home

3. Clean with ceramic media and solution

4. Thoroughly dry

5. Prime cases w/out any sizing (neck or full length either one) Keep cases separated for individual rifle to be shot in.

6. Charge with powder by whatever means you prefer and place wad over powder.

7. Comprress powder and then finger or slip fit bullet, whatever you wish to call it.

8. Run into crimp die just until you feel a little resistance and then back off so that there is no roll crimp whatsoever. Just a nice straight case.

9. Check a few to see that they will chamber. \\

That is it. Saves a bunch of steps, and as Gunny and some others have stated, the only repeatable neck tension, is none at all. I have been getting some excellent groups, and doing pretty will in competition using this method.

Over on the BPCR forum, I am going to be posting my method of pan lubing without sizing, and a bunch of pictures. After my initial attempts at pan lubing starting over a year ago, I have got to the point that I will never do it any other way. Randy
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Ray and Hangfire, sorry for the mistake in my post. I just read Ray's name on the last post and addressed it to him. Randy
Randy Ruwe
HangfireME
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Post by HangfireME »

No worries Omaha - I read it anyway :wink:

Thanks for this and keep it coming.

By the way - don't know as I've heard of ceramic media for a case cleaner.
MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Omaha Poke,
Just thinking about not compressing a swiss load and not using any neck tension, would seem to not be practical. What keeps the compression uniform, shot to shot? Blow tubing is not a perfect solution, so must you wipe between shots? Hungry minds need to know.
Keep on hav'n fun!
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Mike, that is a good question, and in answer, I do compress my Swiss loads. I have been doing some serious testing of a Victory bullet mould, 550 gr bullet cast 30-1 lead-tin. I spent two months just working on loads for the .45-70 for this bullet, and have more recently started testing it for my .45-90.

With the .45-70 the best load I worked up used Swiss 2FG and it was dropped through a 24" tube and then compressed .19 to .20".

With the .45-90 I had excellent groups with Swiss 1.5FG and .20 -.21". By excellent, I mean for me. I put 9 out of 10 shots into a group measuring 1.5" vertical by 1.75" horizontal at 200 yds. This was using a standard NRA 200 yd target.

Don't believe everything that you read about Swiss not being able to be compressed until you try it yourself. I also blow tube between shots. The number of times depends on the relative humidity, temp, etc. Hope this helps, Randy
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Kelley O. Roos
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Post by Kelley O. Roos »

Loads development and how acurate the load is will determine whats best in the reloading process. keep it simple.

1-deprime case's and dump in soap and water at range.
1-Clean case's with ceramic media.
3-tumble dry case's in walnut media.
4-Neck size only.
5-Expand neck for proper neck tension.
6-Prime case.
7-weight and trickle (actualy more like dump) into case through a 32" drop tube.
8-Install LDPE wad.
9-Install paper wad.
10-Set bullet into case and seat.
11-Clean excess lube off.
12-Put finished bullet in ammo box.
Done.

My load requires no pre-powder compression, no rerunning into die to remove case mouth bell, have the proper expander ball for the neck tension I want. Takes me approxmately 3 1/2 hours from casting to the final product of 60 rounds of match ammo.

Kelley O. 8)
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Kelley, you pretty much mirrored my post, except I have quit sizing at all. Since I don't size, there is no need to expand and bell the case. Since the case is not belled, it doesn't take much to bring the case down just a little after loading to keep the bullet from falling out from its own weight. I also forgot to say to put them in the ammo box :P Randy

PS don't forget to keep me informed on when that Dec. shoot is going to take place down there in Arnold land. :D
Randy Ruwe
Jim Kidwell
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The reloading process

Post by Jim Kidwell »

Wow, Randy, with "excellent groups" at "9 out of 10 shots into a group measuring 1.5" vertical by 1.75" horizontal at 200 yds"; I would certainly go for the Pedersoli 'Minute of Angle' award..............Jim :roll:
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Jim, as soon as I get these two loads perfected, for the .45-70 and the .45-90, that is exactly what I intend to do. I didn't mention the rifles since they are both Pedersoli's. I have two Shiloh's as well, so I hope no one thinks that I am trying to promote one brand over another. I haven't tested this bullet yet in my Shiloh's since I agreed to test them in the rifle the bullet was specifically designed to fit. I do think though that this bullet will work well in the Shiloh's also.

If I had better eyesight, and better concentration, I am sure that these loads and bullet would do even better. Randy

PS just so everyone knows, I am not affiliated in any way with any manufacturer of any product. Randy
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Clarence
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Post by Clarence »

With Swiss, I load pretty much like Kelly, with the exception of a veggie wad-0.050 compression works well for me, so no separate compression step. With GOEX, veggie wad and separate compression step. I throw powder through an RCBS measure with a .17 caliber funnel and a 24" drop tube mounted below it-the settling is very consistent, because the powder always goes through the funnel in the same amount of time.

I've shot unsized cases in the past. I find they only work well if you have the bullet into the rifling. That's not practical with Rollers, and not even great for Sharps. I've seen several people try with little success if there is not some initial resistance to get a consistent powder burn.

Clarence
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Omaha Poke
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Post by Omaha Poke »

Clarence, the .45-90 load I listed above was shot in a Pedersoli, John Bodine, Rolling Block, and as a matter of fact the bullet was seated well into the lands.

The only problem, if you could call it that, is that the hammer has to be held back beyond full cock to chamber the round, and you must insure that the block itself is fully rotated to the rear. It may take a slight more amount of time to do this, but it works well for me, and doesn't pose a problem.

My bullets seat into the lands from 2 to 4 thousanths. Randy
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deerhuntsheatmeup
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,,,

Post by deerhuntsheatmeup »

Clarence,

Folks should listen closely to what you have to say after the match you shot Sat. at Goula. I know you have taught me plenty over the last couple of years. I bought some more of our lot of powder and will start using it soon so that I can follow your lead without wiping during a match.

Great Shootin' Sat.

Later, David Barfield

See you at Bogue Chitto
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